The Evolution of Skincare: Why We’ve Ditched the 70s, 80s, and 90s Trends (And What We’ve Learned)
If you take a step back and think about it, skincare has undergone a revolution in the past few decades. What was once considered cutting-edge—or at least trendy—now feels like a relic of a bygone era. From alcohol-soaked toners to sunbeds as acne 'cures,' the skincare practices of the 70s, 80s, and 90s were well-intentioned but often misguided. Today, dermatologists are practically begging us to leave these habits in the past. But what’s truly fascinating is how these outdated trends reflect not just a lack of scientific understanding, but also the cultural and psychological pressures of their time.
The ‘Squeaky Clean’ Myth: Alcohol-Heavy Toners and the Skin Barrier
One thing that immediately stands out is the obsession with ‘squeaky clean’ skin in the 70s and 80s. Alcohol-heavy toners and astringents were marketed as the ultimate solution for oily skin and breakouts. Personally, I think this trend was rooted in the idea that tightness equaled cleanliness—a misconception that still lingers today. What many people don’t realize is that this tightness was actually a sign of inflammation, not purity. High alcohol concentrations strip away essential lipids, weakening the skin barrier and leading to a host of issues like irritation, rebound oil production, and even worse breakouts.
From my perspective, this trend highlights a broader issue: our tendency to equate harshness with effectiveness. Modern skincare, thankfully, has shifted toward balance rather than stripping. Ingredients like niacinamide, azelaic acid, and PHAs are now the gold standard, focusing on hydration and barrier repair. What this really suggests is that skincare isn’t just about treating symptoms—it’s about understanding the skin’s ecosystem.
The Sunbed Myth: When Tanning Was a ‘Cure’
Another relic of the past is the belief that sun exposure—or worse, sunbeds—could cure acne. In the 70s and 80s, the idea that UV rays ‘dried out’ pimples was widespread. What makes this particularly fascinating is how it reflects the era’s lack of preventative skincare. SPF was an afterthought, and anti-aging products were marketed almost exclusively to women over 40.
In my opinion, this trend underscores a dangerous cultural obsession with quick fixes. We now know that UV exposure accelerates aging, worsens pigmentation, and significantly increases the risk of skin cancer. Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is non-negotiable today, but it’s also a reminder of how far we’ve come in understanding the long-term consequences of our choices.
The Exfoliation Obsession: Abrasive Scrubs and Microscopic Damage
The 80s and 90s were the heyday of abrasive face scrubs, often packed with crushed walnut shells or irregular particles. There was a strong association between tingling and efficacy—a belief that still persists in some skincare circles. What many people don’t realize is that these scrubs created microscopic tears in the skin, impairing the barrier and exacerbating issues like rosacea and hyperpigmentation.
A detail that I find especially interesting is how this trend reflects our cultural desire for instant results. Over-exfoliation was seen as a shortcut to clear skin, but it often led to inflammation and long-term damage. Today, chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs offer a gentler, more effective alternative. This shift isn’t just about science—it’s about rethinking our relationship with our skin.
The Moisturizer Myth: Why Skipping It Was a Mistake
In the 80s, matte skin was the ultimate goal, and moisturizers were often seen as the enemy for oily or acne-prone skin. This raises a deeper question: why did we ever believe that hydration and oil were the same thing? Oily skin can still be dehydrated, and skipping moisturizer only weakens the skin barrier further.
From my perspective, this trend reflects a broader misunderstanding of how skin works. Sebum isn’t the enemy—it’s part of the skin’s natural defense system. Modern skincare emphasizes hydration for all skin types, recognizing that a healthy barrier is the foundation of clear, resilient skin.
The Pore Strip Phenomenon: A Cultural Obsession with Quick Fixes
Pore strips were a 90s cultural phenomenon, promising to ‘unclog’ pores with a satisfying rip. But what this really suggests is our fascination with instant gratification. While pore strips removed the top of blackheads, they did nothing to address underlying issues like oil production or follicular blockages.
In my opinion, this trend highlights our tendency to treat symptoms rather than causes. Today, ingredients like salicylic acid and retinoids are preferred because they target the root of the problem. It’s a reminder that skincare isn’t about quick fixes—it’s about long-term health.
The Aggressive Acne Treatments: Drying Out Isn’t the Answer
The 90s were all about drying out acne with harsh cleansers, toners, and astringents. This ‘cleanse, tone, strip’ philosophy was based on the idea that acne was caused by dirty skin. What many people don’t realize is that acne is a complex condition driven by factors like sebum production, bacteria, and hormonal influences.
Personally, I think this trend reflects a deeper stigma around acne—the idea that it’s a result of poor hygiene or lifestyle choices. Modern treatments focus on understanding the root cause, using gentle cleansers and targeted ingredients like retinoids. This shift isn’t just about science—it’s about compassion and education.
What This All Means for Skincare Today
If you take a step back and think about it, the evolution of skincare is a story of progress—but also of cultural and psychological shifts. What was once seen as effective is now understood to be harmful, and what’s considered essential today might evolve in the future.
From my perspective, the biggest lesson is this: skincare isn’t just about products—it’s about mindset. The trends of the 70s, 80s, and 90s were shaped by misconceptions, marketing, and a desire for quick results. Today, we’re moving toward a more holistic, science-backed approach that prioritizes skin health over temporary fixes.
What this really suggests is that skincare is a reflection of our values. As we learn more, we’re not just improving our routines—we’re redefining what it means to care for ourselves. And that, in my opinion, is the most exciting part of all.
