The Milan menswear scene is undergoing a significant shift, and the absence of a giant like Giorgio Armani, who passed away at the age of **91 in September, is deeply felt.** But amidst this change, some fashion veterans are not only surviving but thriving. Ralph Lauren, at 86, and Paul Smith, who will turn 80 this year, continue to make their mark. Let's dive into what they're up to!
Paul Smith recently showcased his collection on a Saturday evening at the brand’s Italian HQ. The presentation was anything but ordinary; Smith himself took the stage as the compère, offering insights into the designs and their inspirations. The collection stayed true to the brand's core, featuring bold prints, stylish suiting (this time with an oversized twist), and vibrant colors across sweaters and shirts.
This Milan show marked Smith's second time presenting his menswear collection in the city. He explained that the compère format was a tribute to the shows he witnessed as a young man at the ateliers of Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent in the 1970s. Smith emphasized the personal nature of his brand, stating, "I really wanted to do a salon show… Because we’re still an independent company, and I still own it, it’s so personal in today’s corporate world, I think it’s really interesting.”
But here's where it gets controversial... Smith's collection also drew inspiration from a collaboration with his new design director, Sam Cotton, and Cotton's exploration of 5,000 designs from the Paul Smith archive. "They come back and they go: ‘Look at this,’” Smith says. “I say: ‘I did that in 1982.’ ‘Yeah, but it’s bloody marvellous.’ And then we rework it.” The reworks included a jacket from a 1999 collection and a rust-colored grandad shirt that Smith himself dyed on a gas cooker. This blending of past and present could be a clever move to attract new customers to a brand that started in 1970. And this is the part most people miss... Despite the collaborations, Smith remains firmly in control. He starts his day at 6 AM and is still deeply involved. Nothing has changed.
Like many luxury brands, Paul Smith has faced challenges, including a 7% drop in turnover in 2024 due to the post-pandemic slowdown. Smith acknowledges the current difficulties, saying, "Our results this year won’t be very good at all… But we’re here and we’re working it out, and we’re going to be fine.”
In contrast, Ralph Lauren is experiencing a surge in success, partly due to the resurgence of preppy style, a look the brand has cultivated for nearly 60 years. Sales increased by 11% in the first quarter of 2025, and the term "Ralph Lauren Christmas" trended online. The show, which combined Polo with the more upscale Purple label, celebrated the style details that have defined the brand since its inception in 1967. Although Lauren himself did not attend, his son David, along with celebrities like Tom Hiddleston and Noah Schnapp, were present at the show, held in a palazzo purchased by Lauren in 1999.
The show presented a lifestyle tailored for the wealthy, encompassing weekend wear, office attire, evening wear, and even ski holiday essentials. To further solidify its presence, the brand will return to Milan in February to outfit Team USA for the Winter Olympics.
What do you think about the blending of past and present in fashion? Is it a winning strategy, or does it risk losing the brand's original identity?
